Ninja Backup Ski Doo 1200

*Patented Fully Autonomous Snowmobile NITROUS System

-150HP (200, 250, & 300hp kits available upon request.  Call for details)



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*Patented Fully Autonomous Snowmobile NITROUS System

-150HP (200, 250, & 300hp kits available upon request.  Call for details)

- Forget any of the bad things you have ever heard about nitrous.  We have mastered it.  It is now safe, easy, reliable, and human error proof.

-Activated by throttle input

-Fueling & Timing maps calculated through the ecu 1000 times a second.  Even under activation.  (NO MORE TUNING!)

-We use the nitrous to accelerate the crank from 6000 to 9000 rpms.  Once the engine hits our rpm range the ecu smoothly pulses the nitrous out in the background even though the rider might be requesting it.  Once the engine is at max rpm range it does not need the nitrous to maintain it. With this strategy the 5lb bottle lasts a long time. 

How It Works

Stage 2 Ninja Backup 175hp gain, simple arming by putting into sport mode, activated by throttle, using our patented nitrous engagement strategy. Includes Raze Motorsports Replacement ECU, 2 inch raze motorsports liquid filled bottle gauge, 0-1000psi pressure sensor, 5 lb nitrous bottle & bracket, .5 amp draw nitrous solenoid, Raze Motorsports jet kit, and a wire harness and mounting kit.  Our patented nitrous strategy is the first ever autonomous nitrous system that eliminates human error.  Nitrous is extremely violent, sensitive to temperature, and if engaged at the wrong time can cause severe immediate engine damage.  The kit starts out as the Wingman Kit & fuel map for its base. When you are riding in nitrous Disarmed Mode you are in "Wingman mode." This base map is worth 17 HP and flawless engine operation in any conditions.  We stack the nitrous system with it to create our Ninja Backup Kit. 

Engine operating Temperature - If the engine operating temperature is to low the ECU will not allow the nitrous to activate.  Spraying nitrous into a cold engine could cause stiction. (Seized pistons / 4 point scaring etc..)

Bottle Pressure - This is by far the most important aspect of our strategy.  Most nitrous systems are tuned and jetted for maximum bottle pressure.  When you see us or other professionals using nitrous for drag cars etc., we use bottle heaters to maximize the bottle pressure, then bleed the pressure off right before the race to hit a target bottle pressure number.  15-30 minutes before the race guys have electric blankets wrapped around the bottles to heat them up to 1000psi.  Generally speaking nitrous jets are targeted for 800psi.  When they pull up to the line for a burnout they blow it off to bring it down to the 800 they jetted their fuel for.  If they have too high of a bottle pressure the engine will be lean.  If too low of a pressure engine will be fuel rich.   When you see people spraying off their nitrous right before a race it’s not for show. They are bleeding their nitrous bottles down to the correct pressure so the nitrous matches their fuel jetting.  The only way to overcome it is to have an ECU monitoring this so it can adjust the fuel table as the bottle pressure changes.   With snowsports we do not have that luxury of warming bottles up to their maximum pressure.  We already don't have a big enough charging system to run lights and electric hand warmer grips. Let alone heat a giant aluminum bottle in the middle of the snowy mountains.  The bottle pressure is constantly changing due to volume in the bottle and outside air temp. Even on long pulls you can drop 100psi or more during the run. If the bottle pressure is constantly changing then the only way to fuel accurately is to constantly change the fueling table according with the bottle pressure. Or jet it absolutely pig rich so you have a huge safety window, but now your 150 HP jet of nitrous makes half.   Another way people fuel nitrous systems, that we do not agree with, is off the 02 reading.  When tuning nitrous off of the 02 reading you are reading what already happened.  Your reading aftermath.  With nitrous, if the bottle pressure is way high and you spray a huge hit, by the time the 02 picks up on the lean spike and adds fuel to compensate it could cost you a piston. Therefore, we write our nitrous maps based on the bottle pressure so our ECU knows how much fuel to add before it even reaches the intake manifold and as it changes our fuel map changes with it.    

Engine RPM - The ECU will not activate the nitrous solenoid unless the engine is above 6000 rpms.  The second nitrous is activated, the engine cylinder pressure skyrockets.  Nitrous is extremely violent.  It’s no different than hitting the oxygen valve to start cutting with your oxy acetylene torch. It determines if you are warming the steel or blitzing a hole right through it and cutting it in half.  That’s what nitrous does to your combustion event in your cylinder.  When its activated its game time. If the engine is being lugged down at low rpms and the nitrous is activated, if the increased cylinder pressure can't drive the piston down because it has too much load on it, the next weak link is a bent or broken connecting rod.  Anybody in the nitrous racing world with manual nitrous kits has experienced this personally or knows somebody that has bent or broke rods by activating nitrous to soon.  The only way to safely activate nitrous on a snowmobile is 6000 rpms or greater.  We also cut the nitrous off at 9000 rpms even if the rider has the nitrous armed with torque request at 100%.  We do this to protect the machine from over revving and harming the valvetrain. If you are using nitrous and can carry 10,500 rpms, it’s time to add more clutch weight.  

Nitrous Activation vis TPS-  Throttle Position.  If the ECU greenlights everything above, it will activate the nitrous solenoid once the rider requests 65% throttle or more.  As soon as the rider drops below 65% torque request the ECU will shut the nitrous off.

Raze Moto Solenoid- Our solenoid only draws .5 amps to activate. 

Tip in Fuel Tip in fuel is simply making sure that the fuel (gasoline) hits the combustion chamber at the same exact combustion event or before the nitrous gets to it.  People talk about this a lot but do not realize that watching an 02 sensor with the human eye will not pick up on 30-40 combustion events that went lean when the nitrous was activated manually.  The only way to log that is with a laptop and watch the graphs in micro seconds.  It is so extremely important to make sure the fuel is at the combustion event before the nitrous especially in a recreational nitrous application that gets multiple activation requests per day.  Think about what that does to the piston if every single time you hit the nitrous button at 8000-10,000rpms.  A split second to you is 30-40 combustion events to your engine and that can wreak havoc on the piston and rings.  You would never hear it, feel it, nor see it by looking at an 02 sensor, but it’s there if you don’t tip in the fuel.  The ECU knows how long it takes for the nitrous to reach the intake manifold.  From the time the solenoid opens a few feet away till it reaches the jet installed on the intake.  Depending on the bottle pressure, it effects how long it takes the nitrous to reach the intake manifold.  So the ECU is dynamically adjusting the tip in fuel according to what the bottle pressure sensor is telling it.

Tip out Fuel- Tip out fuel is making sure there is fuel (gasoline) still spraying after the nitrous shuts off.  This is just as important as tip in fuel. Imagine you are washing your car and while you are spraying the nozzle somebody shuts off your water supply.  Water doesn't shut off instantly, it continues to flow for a little bit.  When you release the nitrous button and close the nitrous solenoid, there is still nitrous in the line between the intake and the solenoid that is going to flow into the engine.  If the extra fuel shuts off the instant you release the nitrous button and that extra little bit of nitrous gets injested into the motor without extra fuel, you have a lean event. Depending on the length and diameter of the nitrous line this could be way more than 30-40 combustion events.  Once again, this can wreak havoc on your piston giving nitrous a bad wrap when truthfully it points back at the engine strategy.  Our ECU is also leaving the fuel map rich for a period of time after the solenoid is shut off to account for the nitrous left in the line.  The ECU is also referencing bottle pressure to calculate the tip out fuel table.  A 300 psi bottle compared to a 1000 psi bottle has a massive tip out fuel change.

In the end when the nitrous mode is armed the Ninja Backup ECU is calculating all the above at 1000 times per second in closed loop.  There is no safer product on the market when it comes to nitrous power kits.  



This is a stand alone ECU that replaces the factory ECU.  This IS NOT a fuel control box that works conjunction with the factory ECU.  Plugs into factory harness with no cutting of wires.

• Dynamic ignition timing strategy to produce insane throttle response, huge horsepower gains and eliminate turbo lag.

• Soft rev limiter to protect valve train.

• Pump fuel, E85, race fuel, water-meth, and nitrous maps available.

• Built-in Baro Sensor for dynamic fueling, timing, and boost altitude compensation.

• Launch Control, 2-Step, and Traction Control activated with OEM switches and controls.

• Raze ECUs are made with vehicle specific CAN bus communications. All factory dash functions and buttons work.

• Knock Control - Dynamic Feed Forward Knock Control. Always adjusting to apply maximum safe timing. This is Standard with all kits.

• Closed loop. Kit comes with an included harness for an analog 02 input. Almost all 02 controllers and gages have an analog output. Just hook that wire to our harness and the ECU will automatically switch into closed loop.

The 1200 ECU runs on our patent pending RPM Targeting engine strategy.  The ECU is targeting 9150 RPM's on the 1200 motor.  It will do whatever it takes to hit that target giving ignition timing dominance over boost in the strategy.  We give ignition timing dominance first in the strategy because making power with timing rather than more boost keeps the intake air as cold as possible.  Do you want to turn the boost up on your kit?  Add more weight to the clutch and the ECU will see the extra load and turn up the power to hit its target.

This is a plug and play ECU.  We do not offer tuning capabilities to the public.  Our strategies are extremely complicated and calibrated with OEM level engineering tools (Mat Labs). Custom in-person engine calibrations by Raze Motorsports are available for high level competition builds.

The kit comes with everything necessary to take the kit out of the box, install it on your machine, and go ride.