*Patented Fully Autonomous Snowbike NITROUS System
-Activated by throttle input
-Fueling & Timing maps calculated through the ecu 1000 times a second. Even under activation. (NO MORE TUNING!)
-We use the nitrous to accelerate the crank from 6000 to 10,500 rpms. Once the engine hits our rpm range the ecu cuts the nitrous in the background even though the rider might be requesting it. Once the engine is at max rpm range it does not need the nitrous to maintain it. With this strategy the 5lb bottle lasts a long time.
How It Works
Stage 2 Ninja Backup Kit — Stage 1+20HP N20 = 31HP gain, simple arming switch, activated by throttle, using our patented nitrous engagement strategy. Includes Raze Motorsports Replacement ECU, billet thermostat, stainless bypass line, dual map switch (used to arm/disarm the ecu), Bosch replacement fuel injector that fits in the stock location, 2 inch raze motorsports liquid filled bottle gauge, 0-1000psi pressure sensor, 5 lb nitrous bottle & bracket for Yeti, .5 amp draw nitrous solenoid, Raze Motorsports jet kit, and a wire harness and mounting kit. Our patented nitrous strategy is the first ever autonomous nitrous system that eliminates human error. Nitrous is extremely violent, sensitive to temperature, and if engaged at the wrong time can cause severe immediate engine damage. The kit starts out as the Wingman Kit & fuel map for its base. When you are riding in nitrous Disarmed Mode you are in "Wingman mode." This base map is worth 11 HP and flawless engine operation in any conditions. We stack the nitrous system with it to create our Ninja Backup Kit. The arming switch is mounted on the clutch side handlebars.
Arming Switch - The supplied switch that mounts on the clutch side of the handlebar switches the ECU into armed or disarmed nitrous mode. When armed, it starts calculating the following:
Engine operating Temperature - If the engine operating temperature is to low the ECU will not allow the nitrous to activate. Spraying nitrous into a cold engine could cause stiction. (Seized pistons / 4 point scaring etc..)
Gear Position - We do not let the nitrous activate in 1st gear. Nitrous activation in 1st gear goes instantly to the rev limiter and is useless. Even with a soft-rev limiter strategy in the ECU it risks valvetrain damage. Therefore, we only activate in 2nd gear and above.
Baro Sensor - This is the black circle you see on top of the ECU in the photo. We use the baro sensor in almost every calibration table. It is extremely important for calculating the amount of oxygen the engine is breathing. This baro sensor lets us know what altitude the rider is at. We do not activate the nitrous solenoid anything under 2000' in altitude. The engine makes way too much power at that low elevation to use a 20 HP shot of nitrous without mechanical upgrades. (This setting can be changed in the software but is not recommended without mechanical upgrades to the engine)
Bottle Pressure - This is by far the most important aspect of our strategy. Most nitrous systems are tuned and jetted for maximum bottle pressure. When you see us or other professionals using nitrous for drag cars etc., we use bottle heaters to maximize the bottle pressure, then bleed the pressure off right before the race to hit a target bottle pressure number. 15-30 minutes before the race guys have electric blankets wrapped around the bottles to heat them up to 1000psi. Generally speaking nitrous jets are targeted for 800psi. When they pull up to the line for a burnout they blow it off to bring it down to the 800 they jetted their fuel for. If they have too high of a bottle pressure the engine will be lean. If too low of a pressure engine will be fuel rich. When you see people spraying off their nitrous right before a race it’s not for show. They are bleeding their nitrous bottles down to the correct pressure so the nitrous matches their fuel jetting. The only way to overcome it is to have an ECU monitoring this so it can adjust the fuel table as the bottle pressure changes. With snowsports we do not have that luxury of warming bottles up to their maximum pressure. We already don't have a big enough charging system to run lights and electric hand warmer grips. Let alone heat a giant aluminum bottle in the middle of the snowy mountains. An advertised 20 HP nitrous jet with a 700 psi bottle will spray 12 HP at 350 psi and 28 HP at 1000psi. The bottle pressure is constantly changing due to volume in the bottle and outside air temp. Even on long pulls you can drop 100psi or more during the run. If the bottle pressure is constantly changing then the only way to fuel accurately is to constantly change the fueling table according with the bottle pressure. Or jet it absolutely pig rich so you have a huge safety window, but now your 20 HP jet of nitrous makes half. Another way people fuel nitrous systems, that we do not agree with, is off the 02 reading. When tuning nitrous off of the 02 reading you are reading what already happened. Your reading aftermath. With nitrous, if the bottle pressure is way high and you spray a huge hit, by the time the 02 picks up on the lean spike and adds fuel to compensate it could cost you a piston. Therefore, we write our nitrous maps based on the bottle pressure so our ECU knows how much fuel to add before it even reaches the intake manifold and as it changes our fuel map changes with it.
Engine RPM - The ECU will not activate the nitrous solenoid unless the engine is above 6000 rpms. The second nitrous is activated, the engine cylinder pressure skyrockets. Nitrous is extremely violent. It’s no different than hitting the oxygen valve to start cutting with your oxy acetylene torch. It determines if you are warming the steel or blitzing a hole right through it and cutting it in half. That’s what nitrous does to your combustion event in your cylinder. When its activated its game time. If the engine is being lugged down at low rpms and the nitrous is activated, if the increased cylinder pressure can't drive the piston down because it has too much load on it, the next weak link is a bent or broken connecting rod. Anybody in the nitrous racing world with manual nitrous kits has experienced this personally or knows somebody that has bent or broke rods by activating nitrous to soon. The only way to safely activate nitrous on a snowbike is 6000 rpms or greater. We also cut the nitrous off at 10,500 rpms even if the rider has the nitrous armed with torque request at 100%. We do this to protect the machine from over revving and harming the valvetrain. If you are using nitrous and can carry 10,500 rpms, it’s time to shift, and pull another gear anyways because it will every time.
Nitrous Activation vis TPS- Throttle Position. If the ECU greenlights everything above, it will activate the nitrous solenoid once the rider requests 65% throttle or more. As soon as the rider drops below 65% torque request the ECU will shut the nitrous off.
Raze Moto Solenoid- Our solenoid only draws .5 amps to activate. Therefore there is no need for an auxiliary battery even with kick start bikes.
Tip in Fuel - Tip in fuel is simply making sure that the fuel (gasoline) hits the combustion chamber at the same exact combustion event or before the nitrous gets to it. People talk about this a lot but do not realize that watching an 02 sensor with the human eye will not pick up on 30-40 combustion events that went lean when the nitrous was activated manually. The only way to log that is with a laptop and watch the graphs in micro seconds. It is so extremely important to make sure the fuel is at the combustion event before the nitrous especially in a recreational nitrous application that gets multiple activation requests per day. Think about what that does to the piston if every single time you hit the nitrous button at 8000-10,000rpms. A split second to you is 30-40 combustion events to your engine and that can wreak havoc on the piston and rings. You would never hear it, feel it, nor see it by looking at an 02 sensor, but it’s there if you don’t tip in the fuel. The ECU knows how long it takes for the nitrous to reach the intake manifold. From the time the solenoid opens a few feet away till it reaches the jet installed on the intake. Depending on the bottle pressure, it effects how long it takes the nitrous to reach the intake manifold. So the ECU is dynamically adjusting the tip in fuel according to what the bottle pressure sensor is telling it.
Tip out Fuel- Tip out fuel is making sure there is fuel (gasoline) still spraying after the nitrous shuts off. This is just as important as tip in fuel. Imagine you are washing your car and while you are spraying the nozzle somebody shuts off your water supply. Water doesn't shut off instantly, it continues to flow for a little bit. When you release the nitrous button and close the nitrous solenoid, there is still nitrous in the line between the intake and the solenoid that is going to flow into the engine. If the extra fuel shuts off the instant you release the nitrous button and that extra little bit of nitrous gets injested into the motor without extra fuel, you have a lean event. Depending on the length and diameter of the nitrous line this could be way more than 30-40 combustion events. Once again, this can wreak havoc on your piston giving nitrous a bad wrap when truthfully it points back at the engine strategy. Our ECU is also leaving the fuel map rich for a period of time after the solenoid is shut off to account for the nitrous left in the line. The ECU is also referencing bottle pressure to calculate the tip out fuel table. A 300 psi bottle compared to a 1000 psi bottle has a massive tip out fuel change.